I finally have a chance to sit down and put some thoughts on paper. Flying over Delhi the first thing that struck me was the layout of the city. There were no city planners involved in developing a roadmap for this place. Streets run any way they choose. There is no grid format. Some run in complete circles. Others haphazardly dead-end at the back of a large building. But the city is huge and once you’re on the street the fun really begins.
I was met, as planned by Rajan who oversees the program here in India as well as those in Nepal, Sri Lanka & Thailand. Praise God, because on of my greatest fears was being stranded in the airport with no idea where to go and an obvious target for anyone and everyone. Customs was a formality – I don’t think they really care what you’re bringing in or who you are; just so long as on the way out you pay their tax. The doorway was crowded with taxi drivers and others hoping to give you a ride. Thankfully, Rajan has a van and we were able to leave quickly. As expected, most of the cars are not the luxury automobiles we are accustomed to in the US. While the cars are older and the paint is dulled, they were in fairly good shape, all one color with very few showing any damage aside from banged-up side mirrors. After driving to the hostel I am floored that every car on the road is not missing a bumper and smashed beyond recognition.
The roads are paved, they also have lanes painted as we would expect, there are traffic lights following the same cues as the rest of the world. None of this matters. If you have a horn you’re good to go. Step on the gas, maybe you’ll use your brake, and don’t worry about the rest. My favorite is the signs at every intersection. There are large 4-sided boxes in the middle of the intersection that reads “obey traffic signals”. First note that the sign is in English which means that the sign doesn’t matter. Even those who can read don’t pay attention. You’re best bet is to look out the window and enjoy the scenery.
India is stuck in the past and desperately trying to make it’s way into the current world market. Trapped by a caste system still unconsciously practiced, the modern world is growing up around it. There are large, modern, state-of-the-art 30 floor office buildings with names that are readily recognized: Citibank, Cynergis, & MasterCard. Surprisingly, most of these companies employ locals as the majority of their workforce. There is new construction everywhere but the old practices are still in place. The workers on the building site live in hovels around the project with their families – no hardhats necessary. Women are free to go to school, hold down jobs, vote and own property. But arranged marriages are still commonplace. The TV is flooded with western style adapted by Bollywood and the programming reflects its influence. Still, the majority of women dress in traditional saris while idolizing the runway fashions they watch non-stop on TV. You can see the struggle to advance in the western style, more so than I thought it would be, but the struggle is against their own culture not the lack of support from the western world.
I had the most interesting discussion with Rajan today. We were discussing Hindu and the impact it has on the local culture vs. the small Muslim population that is a thorn in their side. Hindi has many gods, sort of a god for every season philosophy. You don’t need to worship any one in particular. As life changes and evolves, the religion adapts to keep pace. Women have the right to vote - the religion gives women more significance and lifts the previous restrictions. It’s an every changing system that allows for no personal responsibility. That’s a hard thing to contradict when you’re talking about a God that requires submission, obedience and fidelity. I asked what the followers of Hindu receive in return from the god(s) of their choice. His reply was simple: if you pray to the god of weather asking for rain and it rains then you are blessed. If it does not rain than that god is not happy with you – find another. That is the reason behind the many shrines; you are continually changing allegiances. So I asked, where is the comfort in knowing that you are protected and cared for? You aren’t – the gods don’t bring you comfort only fortune. Rajan has studied philosophy and is familiar with many schools of thought. So as we talked about God, His providence, His plan and the purpose of His Son on Earth it became more of a debate than an outright witness. When was I prepared for this! Suddenly, the simple plan of grace/man/God/Christ/faith from the Evangelism Explosion lessons years ago was not enough. I was becoming flustered with the frustration of not being able to convince him of how right I was and all I could hear was L & P – God has already given you everything you need. So stop debating and just talk. Not how from a theological perspective can Christ actively move in ones life but this is how I feel Him directing my heart. Not how does it make sense but where is there peace without it. I don’t think he’s convinced but I am more so than ever. Listening to the idea of struggling each day to carve out your own way and seeing the helplessness and struggle in doing it alone makes me wonder why I insist on trying it by myself and failing before finally turning to beg for Christ to take control. I don’t know if Rajan got the message but I did.
I’m staying this week in the city for cultural and language training. I have this philosophy that past a certain age learning is more difficult. The words all seem to blend on the page, I can’t form a coherent sentence to save my life and I don’t think I’ll ever get all the verb tenses. Also, this time is supposed to adapt us to the culture and time change so as not to be a burden on the orphanage. I thought that was silly until I spent the entire day sleeping yesterday. Things move at a much slower pace – life is not as rigidly kept to a schedule. If it gets done, great.; if not, there is always tomorrow. The food is not terrible although I have lost the outer layer of skin on my lips. I don’t particularly care for spicy food and my mouth is on fire. Starch is a staple with rice at every meal. Last night it was rice, potatoes and gravy made from chickpeas. I feel like there is a boulder in the pit of my stomach. The plate is constantly full and it is rude to not accept a second portion. Thankfully I have not been sick which is not the case with most of the other volunteers arriving this week. Please pray that I remain in good health – I really don’t want to deal with that issue as well as adapting.
The woman who serves as housekeeper and cook here has gone to see her husband this morning and will be gone for two days. She has two children who live in Calcutta with her sister. Her husband works in Delhi, a few miles away, and she has not seen him in five months. I asked if this was common, for families to be split up. Rajan said that a good many are, they go where the jobs are. Life’s tough was his comment. She is such a sweet woman, probably my age, and is childlike in here attitude always laughing and showing us things that she is doing.
Tomorrow Rajan is going to take me into the city to see the orphanage there and visit with the outreach program to the street children and meet that director. A local Christian couple runs this ministry so it will be nice to spend the day with them and hear their impressions of the people and their needs.
So I’ve settled in an adapted, the food is not killing me, I’m adjusting to the odd pace of things and all in all am doing well. Thank you for continuing to pray while I see exactly how and where I’ll be used this month.