Everything AND the kitchen sink

Yesterday I sat through phase one of language class and have 16 pages of nouns, verbs, objects & pronouns to show for it. But wait! There are also verb conjugations for simple present, simple past, simple future and present continuous (whatever that is). In all honesty so what if I don’t learn it. What are they going to do – send me home? Little did I know what was coming today.

My host Rajan is a nice guy. He has a master’s degree in British Literature and a second degree in Philosophy so there is plenty to talk about. I am the only person here for training right now, this being the slow period, and we are moving through the paces quickly. This morning he tells me we’re going sightseeing. Sounds great, right? All was not as it appeared. His goal was to introduce me to the way the city works, force me to speak the language, figure out city transit, maneuver the busy streets, learn how to barter an shop in the open air food stalls all while visiting the common sites I would be taking the kids too. I am exhausted and it is only 4:00. I’ll try to explain but there is so much it may need to be spread over the next couple days. (Today was the first test. Is till have to learn how to cook, wash clothes & clean. Then we will do the city one more time. Lucky me!)

The city is such chaos. But the people are so comfortable in their skin that sort of order begins to come forth. There is a degree of patience and acceptance that brings a calm to things. Traffic is a nightmare. I’ll never look at rush hour the same again. There are cars, bikes and horse drawn carts all sharing the same road – but with deference to the holy cows! Auto part to vegetables, books to animal feed, anything you can imagine is piled high on a cart hanging from a window or strapped 8 feet in the air to a bike. I actually saw a woman walking down the street with a kitchen sink, drain trap and all, balanced on her head.

The city is covered in a fine layer of dust. Even the trees don’t look green till you see their muted leaves up close. You come across the fruit & vegetable stands and even in the worst of conditions the colors are so appealing. There is such an incredible variety it’s easy to see why much of the cuisine is vegetarian based. But try choosing. The longer you take the more pressure to purchase. Once you’ve chosen you can’t put it back. Now remember you have a daily budget and need to provide for 35 mouths. Still sound like fun?

Regardless, it was good to learn the system and the children are more than able to help. We went to the Red Fort, which at one time housed British soldiers in barracks, and was formally the complex used by the Maharaja. The palaces have incredible vaulted ceilings and every inch is covered with intricate carvings which were inlaid with gold, silver and precious stones. Only in the highest corners can you see a shadow of what the walls would formerly have looked like wearing their decorations. The majesty isn’t lost however plain the surfaces currently appear. Every doorway frames the next. The windows serve as picture frames for the design of the next room Symmetry abounds and the multi domed roofs cover vast vaulted caverns beneath that, even in their current state are simple breathtaking. The science and engineering behind these inventions remind you that long before the Renaissance there was an empire dedicated to science and the arts.

The palace grounds as well the tomb of Mahatma Gandhi are public parks used extensively by the people fore relaxing and finding a moment of peace in the shade. There are groups of children everywhere, families picnicking and people mapping. This would be a typical outing the kids would enjoy. I’m sure once we are there it will be great but the getting there and back has me a bit concerned.

I’ve asked Rajan several times about the amount of western advertisement and if there is a market here to support it. Tonight we are going to the mall so he can show me the modern side of India. (I think he just doesn’t want to cook and the housekeeper who prepares meals isn’t back yet.) Anyway, we’ll see just how opposite the two worlds are.