Mithan & Bulaun

Today we were back at the Delhi orphanage and Mithan and Bulaun were assigned to me for the day. Mithan reminds me of a monkey. He bounces when he walks, has a semi toothless grin and these ears that stick out from the sides of his head like wings. He also might be the quintessential native guide. I can’t decide if today was a great day because of him or the sights we saw.

First stop was Baha’I House of Worship – a type of non-denominational, love, peace and happiness coexistence type “religion”. It’s the building that we were there to see. (See the previous post on theology for more on the sect and their temple.) The temple was designed, I think by the same architects, as the opera house located in the Sydney Harbor. It is a beautiful building and grounds, a little happy happy for me, but I’m glad I saw it. The marble was particularly beautiful; it looked like mother-of-pearl, almost opalescent. But moving on….

The next stop was Humayan’s Tomb made up of not just one building but a complex of 2 large tombs (buildings) a few mosques, as well as outlying garden porches and pagodas. I could never have imagined anything this breathtaking. It is in such good condition, aside from the looted jewel and marble insets, I can’t even begin to describe it and unfortunately can’t post pictures from here. Look it up online, it was magnificent. The boys practiced telling the history of the different people buried on site, the historical significance and commented on the architecture and construction. I was in heaven; this is the detail I live for. For those of you, like my brother who can peak in say “I’ve seen it” and leave, you would have been miserable! We were there at least 2 hours and if I had a book with me would gladly have spent all afternoon.

We stopped for lunch, and there is little to tell here – more chicken and rice with oily gravy – but I had garlic nan! Let me tell you about the most blessed thing this country has to offer! A kind of flatbread brushed with butter and garlic baked in a brick oven over firewood. I could eat it for every meal for the rest of the month and be happy. (Don’t I wish!)

Next stop was Qudab Minar, a tower structure build by the ruling mogul in 1150 AD made of sandstone and inscribed with the most intricate characters and script. Reminiscent of the Roman ruins, it is an ancient Muslim site. The sandstone is multi colored and changes with the shadows and sunlight. The joints are so smooth it’s amazing to see the craftsmanship and wonder at how something so tall was built. (It rises an easy 7 stories.)

Before heading back to the orphanage we stopped to meet Bulaun’s aunt for tea at her home. Her home is a shack of cardboard and matchstick on the side of the road leaning against other ramshackle huts. She greeted us with such respect. It’s hard to understand the concept of the caste, one person being better than another simple because of their station in life. She had purchased sweets and made tea for us and I didn’t have the heart or courage to decline. Please pray that I don’t get sick because the water was from a bottle that was anything but purified! But sitting there with her smile, her nephew so proud was worth whatever is to come. The first thing Bulaun told everyone when we got back was that we had tea in his aunt’s home and he was so proud to have hosted his guest.

It’s an amazing culture, so accepting and hospitable, with a natural serenity, (despite the chaos) that really smoothes over the rocky places. Dinner is almost ready, I can smell the oil cooking, so I’m going to go smile and nod some more, eat more than I can possible hold, and laugh at who knows what – but I’ve yet to laugh alone.